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Tacos de gaonera

From WikiTacos, the taco encyclopedia · Taco type
Also known as: Gaonera, Taco gaonera

The taco de gaonera is a Mexico City steak taco made with a thin, flattened slice of tender beef seared on the plancha with coarse salt and lime and served whole on a fresh corn tortilla; it was created at Taquería El Califa de León and named for the bullfighter Rodolfo Gaona.

Contents
  1. History
  2. Description
  3. Recognition
  4. Preparation at home
  5. Recipe
  6. Where to try it
  7. Reviews
  8. See also
  9. References

History

The gaonera is the house specialty of Taquería El Califa de León, a tiny counter on Avenida Ribera de San Cosme in Mexico City's San Rafael neighborhood that has operated since 1968. Its creator was the founder, Juan Hernández González. In interviews after the stand won a Michelin star in 2024, his son Mario Hernández told reporters that the taco was born from a steak his father had cut badly; rather than waste it, Juan flattened the meat into a thin sheet and cooked it whole. He gave a taste to his friend Rodolfo Gaona, the celebrated Mexican matador, who liked it and urged him to put it on the menu. The taco carries Gaona's name, and "gaonera" is also the name of a pass in bullfighting.

Description

The taco is defined by simplicity. Reporters from The Food Tech and Diario de Yucatán describe very tender, high-quality beef cooked on the griddle with coarse salt and several squeezes of lime, then laid on a traditional corn tortilla. Latina describes the meat as thinly sliced beef filet and notes that tortillas are made fresh by a second cook working beside the grill. A salsa verde, made at the start of each day and described as only mildly hot, is optional, and a red salsa is also offered; many diners eat the taco with little or nothing added, since the meat and tortilla carry it.

Recognition

When the first Michelin Guide Mexico was published in May 2024, El Califa de León received one star, and the guide singled out the gaonera, calling it elemental and pure. Smithsonian Magazine and AFAR reported that the stand was the first taquería to receive a star. The stand's short menu also includes bistec, chuleta and costilla tacos, but the Michelin citation and the press coverage that followed centered on the gaonera.

Preparation at home

Reproducing the gaonera depends on the cut and the slicing. Any tender, lean steak can be used if it is sliced very thin across the grain and pounded flat so it cooks in under a minute on a very hot griddle. Season only with coarse salt and lime so the beef's flavor stays in front.

Recipe

Makes 8 tacos · Time: 20 minutes

Ingredients

  • 500 g beef tenderloin or another tender, lean steak
  • Coarse sea salt
  • 3 limes, halved
  • 1 tablespoon lard or neutral oil
  • 8 to 16 fresh corn tortillas (single or doubled)
  • Salsa verde, to serve (optional)

Steps

  1. Chill the beef in the freezer for 20 to 30 minutes so it is easier to slice.
  2. Cut against the grain into slices about 5 mm thick, then place each slice between sheets of plastic and pound it into a thin, even sheet roughly the size of a tortilla.
  3. Heat a heavy griddle or cast-iron pan until very hot and brush it with a little lard.
  4. Lay a slice of beef on the griddle, sprinkle with coarse salt and squeeze lime over it. Cook 20 to 30 seconds per side, just until browned.
  5. Meanwhile warm the tortillas on a second part of the griddle until soft and lightly spotted.
  6. Lay the whole slice of beef on a tortilla, add another squeeze of lime and a pinch of salt, and serve at once with salsa on the side.

Do not chop the meat; the gaonera is served as a single thin piece. Cook one or two slices at a time so the griddle stays hot.

Where to try it

Reviews

Reviews and tips open at launch. Readers will be able to share where they found the best version of this and how they make it at home.

See also

References

  1. "Taquería mexica gana estrella Michelín". The Food Tech. Retrieved 2026-10-10.
  2. "El Califa de León y su taco especial están en la mira". Diario de Yucatán. Retrieved 2026-10-10.
  3. "Inside The Mexican Taqueria That Earned a Michelin Star". Latina. Retrieved 2026-10-10.
  4. "This Tiny Taco Stand in Mexico City Was Just Awarded a Coveted Michelin Star". Smithsonian Magazine. Retrieved 2026-10-10.
  5. "Mexico's First Michelin Guide Debuts With 18 Starred Restaurants—Including a Taco Stand". AFAR. Retrieved 2026-10-10.
Categories: Beef tacos Mexico City cuisine Street food Taco types